Introduction

This web site offers information on suitable venues to climb with children in England and Wales. Offering additional opportunities to those who enjoy the sport and wish to continue to climb whilst with the family and in addition to times when you might have arranged your children to stay with family or friends whilst you undertake more serious climbs.

Having enjoyed climbing for some years before our son was born we were keen to continue and over the past two years have sought after suitable places to take children and still enjoy the sport.

The most well trodden areas are those in the Peak District a) because that's where we live, and b) because there's a great concentration of short single pitch climbs which lend themselves to family days out.

The main inspiration was the families and picnics section of the 'On Peak Rock' BMC guide although I soon realised that there were many more crags that were similarly suitable.

As well as offering information one of the main reasons for producing this web site is to gain further information on suitable crags in the UK and in Europe.... saving all that footwork and disappointment when you arrive at the crag and find it unsuitable.

If you know of anywhere please go to add new crag, if you don't here's some that we have found.

* Some of the suggested crags may not have been visited by ourselves and therefore may not be as suitable as others... discretion will be required with all crags suggested.

Peak District

Kinder area: Kinder & On Peak Rock guides

Natural gritstone ridge rising to 10m in places has 50 routes ranging from M to E1 but most are D to S. Generally known as a beginners crag (lots of training and school groups) Top roping a specialty which is good when lots of the routes have little protection. Nice and flat and grassy at the bottom great for children to run around, wall and stile to protect them from straying.

Quarried hard sandstone the gorge runs underneath New Mills town center. Routes 24m in height very steep and serious in nature, grades from VD to E5 but mainly HVS and above- no walk off as such, abseil from a convenient tree. Very flat at the bottom and quite clean considering its in the center of town (the occasional bits of broken glass as expected). The river goyt runs through the gorge which is ok if your children are a bit older but not so good if you have young ones. Lottery cash being spent to create a millennium walkway so you can be viewed by walkers and tourists alike.

Quarried gritstone 18m in height with some good routes and excellent belays, owned and used by Tameside CC as a outdoor climbing venue hence good belays and well maintained site. 37 routes from Diff to E5 with an excellent 110m ground level traverse. This venue was made to take children to, totally flat at the bottom- great for a game of footy!

Hobson Moor Quarry, Kinder guide

The Eastern Edges: Stanage, Froggatt, Chatsworth & On Peak Rock  

A classic gritstone edge up to 25m high and massively wide, 850 routes from M to E7. Can get very busy especially a weekends. Some areas along its 5 km length area suitable for children others aren't the best idea is to park at one end or the other and take a walk until you find a spot to suite your needs.

Stanage, Popular End

Natural gritstone (with a small quarried area at the right end of the edge). Qualities similar to the above although doesn't get as busy. 110 routes from D to E9 rising to 15m in places. Child wise the same as Stanage have a wander to find a suitable spot.

Awesome quarried gritstone with climbs up to 30m on very steep ground. 170 routes from VD to E7 but generally VS and above if your a middle of the range climber like me you'll have to look long and hard for some favorable routes but once you find them its great!. The quarry is divided into bays, nice and flat at the right hand side, tends to be a bit rocky and undulating in the middle some good VS routes and flattish at the far left hand edge.

A rounded gritstone edge height ranging fro 5 to 15m described as the ultimate 'family & beginners crag', this may be true if you like rounded, polished and unprotected gritstone. 130 routes from D to E4 and I can safely say that I have never found the start of a HS so hard before! Excellent for children flat and safe, always lots of other like minded families around.

Buxton area: Staffordshire gritstone, Peak limestone- Stoney, Cheedale & OPR  

A large gritstone outcrop situated south of Buxton. Loads of choice over 100 routes from D to E8 of varying heights up to 30m. Definitely my choice of gritstone venues, sharper, more varied, better protected, sheltered and sun soaked (when its sunny) than most other gritstone areas. Flat open grassy areas plus wooded spots for children to play, Ideal for evening summer barbecue's. The lower tier is safer... although the upper tier has a large flat area it does lead to the top of the lower tier so mind they don't wander too far!

Roaches, lower tier including Don Willans memorial hut.

Compact gritstone crag, good for bouldering and soloing. VD to E3 not a lot of routes but enough for a pleasant afternoon. Excellent flat grassy areas for kids to play and some easy top roping for the older ones. *Suggested by D Garnett.

Quarried limestone reaching heights of 35m. One of my top choices and one of the crags that appears in the families and picnics section of the On Peak Rock guide. Easier than most limestone due to the angle of the crag, 45 routes mostly HS to HVS walk off or abseil down. The crag is owned and well maintained by the BMC and is a great area for taking children too. Flat at the bottom with an area to park your car directly bellow the crag, totally enclosed by wall and 5 bar gate making it nice and safe for the youngest of offspring. 

Aldery Cliff, Cheedale guide

Good mid grade sport climbing with a wide flat area at the bottom, although the railway is quite near. It's a nice spot for a picnic with great views of plumb butress. *Suggested by D Hanna.

Matlock area: Peak Limestone-South & OPR

A small & beautiful limestone crag situated next to the village of Alport. 16 routes at 20m in height grades ranging from VS to E3. It may be small but it sure is hard... what looks to be a nice VS becomes a nightmare to even get off the ground! A real beautiful spot next to water meadows flat and picnicy. Beware of the friendly horses and the many onlookers shouting encouragement especially when you are struggling (how embarrassing).

Natural limestone of an overwhelming nature. High, steep & polished (on the mid grades). 40m high and about 80 routes from D to E5 but mainly HVS and above...  there are some good VS routes with lots of polished bits! Although the crag is quite flat at the bottom there are two major aspects that make it unsuitable for children 1) its next to a wide expanse of river and 2) the rock feels loose in parts but don't let this put you off! The reason I have included this in this guide is that if your in a group there is lots to do in the immediate area- a converted mill with shops and cafe, beautiful river walks and Cromford meadows public recreation ground.

Dovedale Area: Peak Limestone-South & OPR

Good quality, pocketed limestone 20m in height with the odd in-situ peg and tread. 20 routes mainly HVS to E5. Situated up a grassy slope the base of the crag it's self isn't really suitable the odd nettle bed being the main deterrent although the cave is an interesting feature for slightly older ones (depending how clean it is). At the bottom of the grassy slope is a large flat area by the river which makes a good base camp when with friends.

Park round the back, small road but pleanty of parking, use Peak Bouldering guide map. Flat walk in to a flat field, superb bouldering all grades up to B9. The best place to climb with small kids. 

*Suggested by Jon Cort.